PLACERVILLE, Calif. May 19, 2022 — Botanist Alison Stanton and her 12-year-old son Milo forged a small river, climbed across a huge, fallen tree and scrambled up a dirt embankment in Eldorado National Forest, where last year the Caldor Fire scorched 221,835 acres.
As they reached a patch of burned forestland, Milo skipped ahead like a mountain goat then shouted, “I found some!”
He was speaking of morels, delicious mushrooms with caps of velvety dark ribs and marbling beige-pitted surfaces. Prized for their rich, savory flavor, morels grow in mixed conifer forests. But after a forest fire, huge flushes of them are known to sprout.
This spring, explosions of morels in this forest and other burned areas of California are creating a new kind of gold rush, luring commercial and recreational mushroom hunters from around the state. They are hiking up mountainsides, searching the forest understory and peering into burned-out root pits to find these toothsome fungi.
Fungi on the move
There are various theories on why morels sprout after a fire, though the exact cause remains a mystery. Some scientists speculate it could have something to do with changes in the soil or the lack of competition from other organisms after a fire, while others believe the shifting availability of food and nutrients is responsible.
According to Thomas Hofstra, professor of forestry and natural resources at Columbia College in Sonora, changes in the environment prompt the mushrooms to move.
Morels have a symbiotic relationship with certain trees, he said, and when a fire removes those trees, the fungi too must pick up and move.
“The way they do this is by producing spores which blow around on the wind,” he said.
Teams of professional pickers, passionate amateurs and even some mushroom hunting virgins have headed into the hills to search for morels. Some have come back with a bounty — others have hiked miles, slid down charred hillsides and sloshed through snow melt only to come out disappointed.
But such is the nature of mushroom hunting. Kevin Sadlier, founder of the Mycological Society of Marin, led members out to the Caldor Fire burn area in early May and through experience has developed a few basic strategies when foraging.
“Whether you find them can really depend on the weather, like if there’s been rain and snow melt to trigger them,” he said. “You basically follow the snow melt up the side of the mountain. Look for trees that still have canopy and understory.”
While seasoned mushroom hunters often develop their go-to spots for edibles like porcini and chanterelles year after year, morels tend to appear one year after a fire. Sadlier said that morels could even keep popping up two to three years after a burn.
Even so, on this particular trip, he only found about 4 pounds in three days, which is not much for a veteran mushroom man like Sadlier. He blames the scarcity on all the commercial pickers who are up there harvesting.